Vintage Fashion: Mixing Old With New

I had the extraordinary privilege of spending a day with an array of exquisite 19^th century gowns.

The Steampunk Chronicles: The Elizabeth S. Brown Fashion Collection is currently on display at HCC's Fashion Design Building.(3601Fannin) Over 4000 garments and accessories dating from the 18^th to the 21^st century are included in a landmark gift to HCC from esteemed vintage collector and lecturer Elizabeth S. Brown.

The kindness of curator Dana Robinson (She could have just walked off the Mad Men set. She was vintage chic and positively adorable) to interrupt her busy schedule and give me a guided tour of the collection was appreciated. But, when she invited me back to her office to view parts of the collection not displayed to the general public I'm sure I squeaked with delight. For a passionate shopper to be invited into a space of overflowing garment racks, shelving units filled with dusty old hatboxes, and hundreds of period embroidered silk shoes is like Carrie Bradshaw seeing Vogue's sample closet. 

It was a spiritual moment.

This unique exhibition is providing a fun and educational perspective on a mode of dress that has become so popular with today's young fashionistas. Even if you are not a Steampunk enthusiast, embracing the concept of breathing new life into a vintage silhouette is one of the core foundations of fashion. Just take a look at popular TV shows like, The Nine Lives of Chloe King. Teenagers, naturally artistic, are utilizing that prototypical concept which has inspired iconic styles from our greatest fashion designers.

In our home, one of my most prized possessions on display is my mother's wedding gown (circa 1950's). Through the years the lace has deteriorated, turned brown and the satin underskirt has yellowed. Sadly, conserving the integrity of textile fibers never crosses the mind of a child while she is playing dress up. These days the dress serves as a decorative aesthetic representation of my family's history and my devotion to fashion as art.

So, where does one find such fabulous vintage frocks? The answer, everywhere.

In one of our recent auctions we sold a vintage 1940's mink muff/purse. The winning bidder purchased the delicate muff as a gift for his daughter who is attending design school in L.A. It was a splendid match.

As you finish this article and ponder a shopping trip through your family's old trunks keep in mind that cleaning vintage textiles is tricky. Unless stored correctly few textiles survive beyond 400 years due to disintegration. If you have a great piece you feel is old, you will be torn about cleaning it. 

The Golden Rules for Vintage Clothes  The following are tried and true, care and storage tips for your valuable vintage: *Never store vintage items in a plastic dry cleaning bags. Fabrics need to be able to breathe. If you want to cover your garments use old cotton pillow cases or sheets. *Never use wire hangers! They can ruin the fabric at the shoulders of garments. The force of gravity stretches the fabric and can lead to tears and rips over time. Many times the hangers will poke through shoulders and can completely rip and disintegrate the shoulders of clothing. NEVER store a beaded 20's dress on a hanger. The weight of the beads will stress shoulder fabric and lead to tears. Always use padded or wooden hangers and fold or roll your fragile silks, knits, rayon's and beaded items carefully instead of hanging. Try not to stack heavy folded items as this will cause creasing and fold marks if items are stored long term. * Never store clothing in heat, like an un-insulated attic or in a damp place like your basement. It is best to store vintage in a cool dark area (under a bed, in a drawer, in a closet in a spare bedroom).?? * Fur coats or any items with fur trim should be stored in a cedar closet or cool dry place - not the attic or the basement!?? * Keep clothes away from light. Light will cause fading and can deteriorate fabric over time. Store vintage clothing in darkness.?? * Use lavender to keep away pests; keep it near by but not touching the fabrics.?? * If possible, clean a vintage item immediately after wearing to avoid stains (especially perspiration) from setting. Most vintage garments older than mid 1960s were not intended to be washed in a machine and should be hand washed or dry-cleaned.?? * If you are just trying to eliminate an odor try an at home dry cleaning kit. These kits work in your dryer by steaming and scenting the clothing. They work well for eliminating musty mildew smells and cigarette or cigar smells.? * Ensure that your vintage garment is washable before putting it in water. Use liquid detergent instead of powder; dry clean or use Dryel if in doubt about washing certain fabrics. Prior to washing check for weak seams, holes or frays. Use cool to warm water to avoid fade or running of garment dyes and spot clean first before washing. After washing lay out the garment on a drying rack, never in the dryer.?? * Always dry clean rayon, silk, wool, velvet, and any garment with beading. Be sure that your dry cleaner is experienced in vintage fabrics! If you can't find a dry cleaner you trust, consult the owner of your local vintage clothing store, or contact a nearby museum with a textile collection and find out who they use.      One of my favorites on display at HCC thru Dec 9th 2011  Checked silk bodice with beaded trim c. 1880's  Shirtwaist with cutwork lace trim c. 1880's  Men's damask vest with shell buttons c. 1860's  Lace bra styled as a cravat c. early 1900's  Mourning capelet styled as a bustle skirt c. 1910  Ruffled silk skirt c. 1890's  Lace mantilla styled as petticoat c. early 1900's  White crinoline c. 1860's      To view our current auction schedule please visit our website www.BoldBids.com We are accepting consignments for auctions Please contact us for more information.